Brittle Nails
Brittle Nails
Put an End to Dry, Fragile Nails
Growing up, many women remember their mothers drinking a daily concoction of gelatin and water or juice, hoping that the gelatin would make their nails stronger. But that beauty aid, popular in the 1950s, probably did little or nothing for Mom's brittle nails.
"There's no scientific evidence that drinking gelatin makes your nails stronger," says Elizabeth Abel, M.D., clinical associate professor of dermatology at Stanford University School of Medicine. Nor has she seen evidence to prove that applying biotin, a B-complex vitamin, to the nails--another traditional belief--helps.
Sooner or later, every woman experiences split or cracked nails, says Dr. Abel. The problem isn't too little protein or too little biotin--it's too little moisture.
"Nails get weak and brittle, then split, because they dry out," explains Dr. Abel. "Exposure to household chemicals and detergents tend to dry out the nails. And some nail dryness is simply a product of aging. Our nails become more brittle and thinner, and they split more easily as we grow older."
NO MORE SPLITS AND CRACKS
Here's what you can do to strengthen brittle nails.
Moisturize to the max. "Petroleum jelly (such as Vaseline) or a thick, water-washable cream acts as an emollient; it holds in moisture around and under your nails," says Dr. Abel.
Wear cotton gloves to bed. Another fan of petroleum jelly is skin-care specialist Lia Schorr, owner of Lia Schorr Skin Care Salon in New York City. She advises her clients to put a thick layer of petroleum jelly on their hands when getting ready for bed, then wear cotton gloves overnight. This is especially helpful in winter, when hands and nails dry out quickly.
"It's a fantastic treatment," Schorr says. "Women love the way it makes their nails look."
Soak 'em in olive oil. Schorr recommends an oil treatment for dry nails. She has learned through years of experience that it's best to use a half-cup of warm olive oil and soak your hands for 15 to 30 minutes. "Olive oil is the best because it's natural," she explains.
Hydrate with bath-oil capsules. Dr. Abel also advises women with brittle nails to soak their hands in diluted bath oil for five minutes once a day. "I like those little bath-oil capsules. I break them into warm water and then apply a moisturizer or a cream with alpha hydroxy in it. The alpha hydroxy is basically a moisturizer that helps hydrate your hands and nails."
Or use other good mositurizers. Phoebe Rich, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Oregon Health Sciences Center in Portland, also advises women to use a good moisturizer. She recommends an over-the-counter product called Complex 15 to women with brittle nails.
Beware of nail polish remover. Women doctors also warn that frequent manicures can dry the nails, because polish removers that contain acetone are drying.
"Also, avoid nail products that contain formaldehyde," warns Marianne O'Donoghue, M.D., associate professor of dermatology at Rush-Presbyterian-St. Luke's Medical Center in Chicago. "It can actually cause contact dermatitis, and it also dries out the nails."
What Women Doctors Do
Petroleum Jelly, All Day Marianne O'Donoghue, M.D. Women entering the office of dermatologist Marianne O'Donoghue, M.D., can't help noticing the jar of petroleum jelly prominently visible on her desk. The jar of Vaseline petroleum jelly is a clue as to how the associate professor of dermatology at Rush-Presbyterian-St. Luke's Medical Center in Chicago keeps her nails healthy. "I think that petroleum jelly is the best thing in the world for dry hands and nails," she says. "I rub it lightly on my nails at least four or five times a day--often in front of patients--and I tell them to do the same. I suggest that they keep several jars on hand--one by the television, one by the telephone and one on the nightstand--and I advise them to rub it on their nails throughout the day." Dr. O'Donoghue credits this humble product with keeping her nails in great shape.
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When To See A Doctor
If your nails are chronically brittle, and you don't know what's causing the problem, see your dermatologist for help. Be sure to tell her about any medications that you're currently taking or other symptoms that you're experiencing, says Phoebe Rich, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Oregon Health Sciences Center in Portland. She may also want to test you for anemia, another possible cause of brittle nails in women.
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Polish, then moisturize. "If you use polish remover often enough to cause drying--frequency varies from woman to woman--then you need to counterbalance the dehydrating effect by putting moisture back into your nails," says Loretta Davis, M.D., associate professor of dermatology at the Medical College of Georgia School of Medicine in Augusta. "So always be sure to moisturize your hands and nails after a manicure."
Let your nails breathe. To stay strong, your nails need to breathe occasionally. So women doctors suggest taking your nail polish off the night before a manicure and then moisturizing them with cream or ointment. Even better, let your nails go a few days at a time without polish to let air reach them.
Keep nails short. Trimming your nails closely is yet another way to minimize problems if you have brittle nails, says Dr. Davis. File or trim them after bathing, when they're damp and soft. They'll cut more easily, minimizing the chance of damage or splitting.
